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Leading UK food producer Cranswick’s Brome Poultry Farm near the Suffolk town of Diss.

Leading UK food producer Cranswick’s Brome Poultry Farm near the Suffolk town of Diss.

Photographer: Ayesha Kazim/Bloomberg

Big Farming’s Big Battleground: an English Village Makes a Stand

If Britain is going to wean itself off pig and chicken meat imports, producers argue output should rise. But locals disagree.

The smell of ammonia seeps into Ann Cuthbert’s furniture, clings to her curtains and can even overwhelm the taste of her food. “It’s like chopping an onion,” the 67-year-old says. “Your eyes will stream, and it irritates the back of the throat.”

Cuthbert blames a pig farm owned by the UK’s biggest pork producer, which has been expanding in the area where she lives in eastern England. She’s been complaining almost weekly to the environmental watchdog. The company, Cranswick, says the farm is a model facility that meets all regulations.